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|13th May 2009, 02:01 AM||Tutorial: Creating Realistic Recessed and Raised Details with Photoshop 2.0 [by hand] #1|
Creating Realistic Recessed or Raised Details with Photoshop 2.0 [by hand]Difficulty: Semi-Easy
Programs: Adobe Photoshop, Gimp, or equivalent program.
Pre-requisites: Basic knowledge of Photoshop tools and functions; they will not be explained
Have you ever tried to crate something such as a crown or woodcarving? If so, you know that in order to look really realistic, the details painted onto the texture can't be just flat color. It looks just as it is painted on: flat. But how do we create the illusion of depth with a flat texture? Simple: shading. Here I'll show you how to do this by hand the easy way. First, select your detail pattern and whether it will be raised or recessed. I will do a recessed pattern here. first, here is my pattern's silhouette:
I chose a fancy pattern because I will later apply it to a crown, but simpler patterns can have the same technique applied as well. My crown will be gold, so I select this color for the main color:
What colors I choose next depend on what kind of detail I'm doing, and where the light will be coming from. Since I am doing a recessed detail, I will choose a slightly darker color for the main base color of the detail:
However, if I were to do a raised detail, I would choose a slightly lighter color. Now, let's assume my light is coming from the top of the picture. If my detail is recessed, that means that the top edges of the detail, will be in shadow, while the lower edges will be in the light. So, for my shadow color I choose a fairly dark shade of the same gold:
And for the lit parts I will choose a fairly bright color:
Next I'm just going to fill the entire detail with the main detail color by selecting it with the "magic wand" tool and using the bucket fill button:
Now that i have the colors selected, I need to choose what kind of brush I will use. I'm going to choose a regular brush that is very blurry. For my size i set it to "6." What we do is simply run the brush along the undersides of all the pieces of the detail (a tablet PC is recommended, but not necessary), creating coherent highlights. It is recommended that you select only the detail area using the "magic wand" tool before beginning this process, just so that you keep the detail's shape. When you reach a section that is vertical you should taper off the highlight and stop it when the section goes totally vertical. If this wasn't clear, try a picture:
Notice how I'm highlighting all the bottom edges. I also messed up in a few places and highlighted the top edge because my brush was too big for the tight space. Ignore these areas, they can be fixed later. Continue with this process over the entire detail, highlighting all the lower edges. Here is a progression of how mine looked as I was doing so:
Once you are done with the highlights, it's time for the shadows. Here we use the same technique as before, following all the same rules, only using the dark shadow color, and following the TOP edges. This process would be reversed (light on the top edges and dark on the bottom) if we were doing a raised detail. As you are doing the shadows, go back with a smaller brush and go over any mistakes you may have made earlier when doing the highlights. Here's the progression of how the shadows are added:
Now, we have the finished product:
And when I scale it and apply it to my crown, it looks like this:
Hope you enjoyed this and learned something.
|13th May 2009, 02:13 AM||#2|
(Also, what's the advantage of this technique over the relief filter? Or nudging the selection upwards/downwards and adjusting the lightness as needed? Or an effects layer? That takes 0.2 seconds and is endlessly flexible .. )
|13th May 2009, 02:21 AM||#3|
Great tut, thank you so much, but where do you find those patterns?
Or what are they called so I can Google them please!
|13th May 2009, 02:38 AM||#4|
plastic: I shall do that. Well, not all of us have relief filters, now do we? some of us are still running PS 2.0, don't you know. Advantages? well, there's the advantage of learning how it works without a computer doing it for you, and the problem with simply nudging the selection up and down is that it creates sharp lines. sharp lines rarely happen in real-life reflections, at least in my observation, and when i tried it it looked more artificial than this method.
Also: may I please have this tut credited to my name on my userpage? I can put it in the wiki myself if it qualifies as useful enough, but I can't link to it on my userpage. Only mods can bend the laws of physics that way. :P
Dee: i googled "fancy design" and "design silhouette"
|13th May 2009, 02:44 AM||#5|
Can't you make a fuzzy/blurry/unsharp selection? My photoshop is german, so I don't know what the terms are in English, but I'm pretty sure fuzzy (blurry, unsharp .. ) selections have been an option for ages. Actually, relief filters too, but I hardly ever use them so I can't tell for sure since when they exist (I feel like they've always been there though, and I use photoshop for 15 years).
ETA: posts only show up as a tutorial/article on people's profiles once they've been reviewed and moved to the actual tutorials section, I believe. Right now this is a regular post.
|13th May 2009, 03:03 AM||#6|
Hmm, well, I read the manual on mine a while back, and there was no mention of them. You can make an unsharp selection, but that causes bleeding on the outside as well as the inside, defeating the purpose of the selection to contain the color.
|13th May 2009, 03:12 AM||#7|
I'm not sure what you mean by "selection to contain the color" .. what I meant was, if you don't have any filters at your disposal, to select the background, move down/right and lighten; deselect, select the background, move up/left and darken. Since the background is transparent, it won't affect anything but the edge of the motif (so it doesn't matter whether the outside edge is blurry or not).
On a nontransparent background, one would select, move, and then make a cross-selection (or reselect the background with "subtract from current selection") with a fuzziness of 0 in order to only catch the edge, fuzzy on the inside and sharp on the outside.
I'd recommend to have light come from top left, not top, by the way. This seems to be the standard way of seeing, at least in left-to-right reading cultures.
I'm probably not the best person to explain this stuff, since I may be using the wrong terms (it's been a while since I had an English photoshop) .. in any case, if you don't do it manually for a very specific reason, your method seems excessively complicated and labor-intensive.
|13th May 2009, 03:27 AM||#8|
Yes, I understand what you mean about using the magic wand tool multiple times to make different selections, but as it turns out I was wrong, I THOUGHT I had the ability to do an un-sharp magic wand selection, but now that I go and look again, the option is only there for the marquee tool. Must be I saw it on the new version I was looking at getting.
Ah, well then, consider it a lesson in art instead of real texturing. And last time I checked, the sun tends to be above us most of the time. I didn't follow what you meant about "in left-to-right reading cultures," because the sun is in the up direction all over the world.
|13th May 2009, 03:49 AM||#9|
Once you have a selection, can you make it unsharp afterwards? That would work for the wand even if the wand itself can only do hard selections in your version.
The way we read affects the way we see. It's not symmetric. The most common way of lighting objects to make them seem potruding is top left. This convention is many hundred years old -- do a google image for "Dürer portrait" and you'll see. (I'm just not sure if this may be more common in left-reading cultures, or what the exact reason is if it's not reading direction -- but it's a fact. Look at the quote/edit buttons on this page. Look at the mts2 logo. Look at the wikipedia logo. Look at pretty much any editing field or button in any piece of software. Top left, all the time.)
|13th May 2009, 04:15 AM||#10|
Nope, tried, can't find anything like it.
eh, true. I suppose I'd forgotten about that lighting thing. I've done that before, IDK why I didn't think of it this time.
Well, whatever, delete it if you want.
|13th May 2009, 04:54 AM||#11|
If there is no way to make an unsharp selection in Photoshop 2.0 (not even save, blur, load?), and no relief filters either, then your technique would still be useful for those who use 2.0 (or whichever your version is). But then you should mention in the post title what software it's about -- I believe that's generally a good idea for tutorials like this, since the features of the various editors vary wildly.
(Same goes for your "organic fabrics" tutorial by the way -- the blender way of making such a flag would be completely different. It's *possible* to do it your way in blender, but insanely complicated. A newbie wouldn't know that, so best stick "milkshape" in the title.).
|14th May 2009, 01:25 AM||#12|
I appreciate it, thank you!
|1st Jun 2009, 01:04 PM||#13|
Hi. Thank you very much, but unfortunately I can't see any of the pics? There are just red exes - even "show picture" does not help! Is there something wrong?